September 28, 2004 - Tuesday - Even though there are no pictures from last week,
it was very productive. Since the walls were poured the week before, we
took the big 2 x 12 boards that we use as scaffolding and bolted them to the
tops of the walls. Not only did we use these very expensive boards as our
scaffolding for weeks while we built the walls, they now become our "plates" or
"sill plates" on the top of the walls. Our roof trusses will sit on, and
be nailed to, these plates. For the very curious, our last task on the day
we poured the walls was to embed anchor bolts into the wet concrete on the top
of the walls. When the concrete is set you then have bolts sticking out
the top of the walls which is how we bolt the plates to the walls. This
picture is of staff member Mark Everson taking down our alignment system since
we no longer need it. Quite a milestone!
September 28, 2004 - Tuesday - After the description of sill plates above, here
is a shot from on high showing them installed.
September 28, 2004 - Tuesday - Any portion of an exterior wall that will be
"below grade" (underground) and has "habitable space" (rooms that people use) on
the other side needs to have some type of water proofing applied where the wall
will be below grade. This requirement goes for our ICF walls as well as
any other type of wall. We use
Epro waterproofing since
they have products made to apply directly onto an ICF wall. We use their
Ecoline-R product which is a thick liquid that we basically "paint" on.
The Ecoline-R goes on brown and then turns to black when dry. This photo
shows part of a wall and the footing after applying two coats of Ecoline-R.
If you look close you can see what looks like tape where the wall meets the
footing. This is reinforcing fabric that we apply and then saturate with
Ecoline-R. The purpose of this is the provide an even thicker coat of the
water proofing at the "cold joint", i.e. where the wall meets the footing.
We call this a cold joint because even though the concrete of the wall and
footing are in contact, they were poured at different times.
September 29, 2004 - Wednesday - To protect our coating of Ecoline-R when we
"back fill" (fill in the footing trenches) we use Epro's Ecoshield-E. Not
only does it protect our coating of Ecoline-R, it acts as another layer of water
proofing. It is red in color and can be clearly seen in this photo.
September 30, 2004 - Thursday - Our footing trench can also do double duty.
This shot shows the conduit that will bring our electric service into the home.
Mark is documenting that the conduit is at least 42 inches below grade as is
required by Clallam County PUD.
September 30, 2004 - Thursday - Water from down spouts also needs to be managed.
This shot shows the white PVC pipe in front of the garage into which the down
spouts will dump. This pipe will ultimately lead to our "dry well" which
is a large, perforated container buried in the yard and surrounded by gravel.
The dry well allows the water from the down spouts to be collected and absorbed
back into the ground in a controlled manner.
September 30, 2004 - Thursday - Footing drains (in this case our Form-A-Drain)
should be covered with gravel before back filling. This helps prevent the
footing drains from becoming clogged with small soil particles.
September 30, 2004 - Thursday - This shot shows the down spout drains at the
back of the home. All that is visible however are the uprights since we
have already back filled this area.
September 30, 2004 - Thursday - This shot shows the "water service" line going
up the side of the home. We use the "blue brute" which is the nick name
for Kitec made by Ipex.
We believe this is one of the best products made for water service use.
After the pipe is run down the trench and into the home, the rest of the roll
waits patiently at the corner of the garage until such time when we dig a trench
out to the water meter.
Back to Summer Breeze Lot 27
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